Muztagh Ata 7546 m

Muztagh Ata is the second highest of the mountains that form the northern edge of the Tibetan Plateau. It is sometimes considered part of the Kunlun Shan, although it is physically more closely related to the Pamir. He is also considered one of the easiest-to-climb 7,000ers in the world due to its gentle western slope and the comparatively drier weather in Xingjian.

Location: Muztagh Ata is located south of Kongur Tagh, the highest peak of the Kunlun Shan, together forming a somewhat isolated group, separated from the Kunlun main chain, and also separated from the Pamir Mountains in the west. (Both peaks are sometimes considered to be in the “Chinese Pamir” and are more closely connected to the main Pamir group than the main Kunkun group.) Not far north and east of this group lie the plains of the Tarim Basin and the Taklamakan Desert. The Karakorum Highway passes very close to both peaks.

The Swedish explorer and geographer Sven Hedin undertook in 1894 the first documented attempt to climb the Muztagh Ata. Further attempts were made in 1900, 1904 and 1947, the last by the strong team of Eric Shipton and Bill Tilman, who came very close to the summit, but were beaten back due to cold and deep snow. The first ascent of the summit was made in 1956 by a large group of Chinese and Russian climbers across the West Ridge, which is the standard route today. Since the first ascent many ascents have been made by Muztagh Ata. In 1980, a group led by Ned Gillette made a ski lift and descent on the Standard Route, the first ski lift of a mountain over 7,500 m (24,600 ft). An ascent of the much tougher south-east ridge took place in the year 2000. 

The peak is located in Rakaposhi and Haramosh ma ssif near the Barpu and Garumbar glaciers. The highest is 7027m / 23,0555ft. 

In 1892, a large expedition of WM Conway went into the area to explore the glacier around the summit. The expedition then crossed the Nushik Pass, which is reportedly 5,273 meters high, and descended on the Kero Lungma Glacier and the Arandu. 

On modern maps, the height of the Nushik Pass is indicated at 4,990 m. However, the summit was climbed in 1878, from the south ridge, by the Japan Hoshi-to-Arashi (Star and Storm) Club Expedition led by Nakamura. 

The Japanese expedition of the Reiho Alpine Club also boarded the area and approached the summit of the Chogolungma Glacier. The highest is 7027m / 23,0555ft. 

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